Parabens, phthalates, formaldehyde, SLS, PEG and silicones. Where does research-backed safety end and the cosmetics industry’s compromises begin?
The beauty industry’s biggest problem? We do not always know what we are really paying for.
Imagine a cosmetic designed to improve your skin’s condition. Beautiful packaging. A promise of hydration. Messages about regeneration, youth and natural beauty. You buy it because you want to care for yourself.
But do you really know what is inside? Do you understand why the manufacturer chose a particular preservative, emulsifier, fragrance or smoothing ingredient? Do you know which substances have documented irritation potential, which face restrictions because of toxicological properties, and which simply do not suit your skin?
Modern cosmetics’ biggest problem is not the use of synthetic substances itself. It is when marketing explains promises more effectively than manufacturers explain ingredients. Not everything natural is safe. Not everything synthetic is harmful. Nor does every skin need the same ingredients.
Some substances can irritate. Others can cause allergies. Others interest toxicologists because of possible hormonal effects, manufacturing impurities or exposure through years of use. At namoi, we decided to examine eight ingredient groups that raise many questions. Our aim is not to frighten, but to show why thoughtful formulation choices matter more than beautiful advertising.
1. Parabens: can a preservative affect hormonal balance?
Parabens are among the best-known cosmetic preservatives. INCI lists may include Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben and Butylparaben. Why use them? Effective preservation limits microorganism growth, and microbiological safety is essential for every water-containing cosmetic.
Parabens primarily raise questions about their differing toxicological properties. Some show oestrogenic activity in particular research models: an ability to interact with biological systems involved in hormonal signalling. This does not automatically mean every paraben-containing cosmetic causes hormonal disorders or breast cancer. Toxicology considers substance type, dose, exposure route, metabolism and actual use conditions. The single word “parabens” does not describe one identical hazard.
In 2021, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considered propylparaben safe as a preservative up to a specified concentration of 0.14%. It noted evidence of possible endocrine effects, but insufficient data to identify it as an endocrine disruptor.
Findings on butylparaben are even more interesting. In a 2025 opinion, the SCCS found that children’s aggregate exposure from several cosmetic categories at the maximum studied 0.14% concentration did not meet safety criteria. Lower levels were proposed for selected categories. For consumers, this means neither all parabens nor all user groups should be treated as identical. It also explains why experts examine combined exposure from several daily products.
namoi’s decision: we deliberately formulate without parabens. Not because every permitted paraben is a proven poison, but because we chose other preservation solutions to use and verify in our formulations.
2. SLS and SLES: does skin need such intensive cleansing?
Foam is often mistaken for effectiveness. More foam, cleaner skin? Not always. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are surfactants used in cleansers. Their main function is removing dirt and oils and helping products rinse off.
Cleansing should not remove everything from the surface. The stratum corneum contains lipids and structures essential to epidermal barrier function. Overly intensive cleansing can increase tightness, dryness and susceptibility to irritation.
SLS is so well established as an irritant that it has been used in experimental irritation research for decades. Studies have observed increased TEWL, or transepidermal water loss, after exposure to certain concentrations.
That matters. But a substance tested under challenge conditions must be distinguished from a finished cosmetic rinsed off after a few dozen seconds. Not every SLS product damages skin. Nor does every SLES formulation have the same irritation potential as SLS. Concentration, pH, other ingredients, washing frequency and individual tolerance matter. For sensitive, reactive or dry skin, however, a gentler cleansing system can make a major practical difference.
At namoi, we do not measure cleansing quality by foam intensity. namoi’s decision: we select alternative cleansing systems intended to clean effectively while considering epidermal barrier comfort. With namoi Personal, cleansing is the first part of an individual ritual. Good care begins by understanding what to remove and what to protect, rather than stripping away everything aggressively.
3. Phthalates: why should fragrance ingredients not receive unconditional trust?
Scent strongly influences how a cosmetic is perceived. It can suggest luxury, freshness, cleanliness and relaxation. Yet a fragrance is often a complex ingredient mixture.
Industry has used different phthalates as solvents, fragrance fixatives and plasticisers, among other purposes. Not all phthalates have identical toxicological properties. This distinction is fundamental. Some, such as dibutyl phthalate (DBP), are banned in EU cosmetics because of their classification and associated hazards. Others, such as diethyl phthalate (DEP), have been assessed separately and cannot automatically be assigned every effect documented for DBP.
Reproductive toxicity and possible disruption of hormonal processes are key research areas for selected phthalates. That makes fragrance composition relevant.
Does every cosmetic labelled “Parfum” contain a dangerous phthalate? No. That would be an unjustified interpretation. A general fragrance label proves neither a specific phthalate’s presence nor product toxicity. For someone with hypersensitive or allergy-prone skin, however, added fragrance itself may warrant a closer look.
namoi’s decision: we avoid synthetic fragrance compositions in our formulas. We want skincare function, rather than scent intensity, to determine value. Skincare need not smell like perfume to be luxurious.
4. Formaldehyde and its releasers: particularly justified safety questions.
Formaldehyde has well-documented toxic properties and is classified as carcinogenic to humans. Exposure type and level matter: the strongest evidence concerns specific exposures, especially inhalation, not any quantity in every cosmetic.
Compounds that release formaldehyde are also relevant in cosmetics. Examples include DMDM Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea and Imidazolidinyl Urea. They can be used in preservative systems. A direct, well-documented dermatological concern is allergic contact dermatitis in formaldehyde-allergic people.
Scientific knowledge is more useful here than marketing simplification. We need not claim every formaldehyde-releasing product causes cancer to justify caution. Understanding release mechanisms and contact allergy is enough.
The EU also introduced specific labelling requirements. Under Regulation 2022/1181, finished cosmetics containing formaldehyde-releasing substances require a warning when total released formaldehyde exceeds 0.001%, or 10 ppm. This specific regulatory threshold considers the amount actually released, not merely a preservative’s name.
namoi’s decision: we choose systems without formaldehyde releasers. Microbiological safety remains essential, and preservation must be a deliberate formulation choice. Luxury cosmetics should feel pleasant, rather than leave customers guessing why their skin burns or stays red.
5. Paraffin, petrolatum and mineral oils: does petroleum origin mean harm?
This is a controversial topic. Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum and other highly purified mineral ingredients are petrochemical in origin. That is true. But calling cosmetic petrolatum “toxic petroleum waste” contradicts knowledge of skin-grade raw material quality. Cosmetics use appropriately purified materials meeting defined quality requirements.
Petrolatum is also well known for reducing surface water loss. Such ingredients are used in dermatological care for very dry skin. Do they form a surface layer? Yes. Reducing evaporation does not automatically “suffocate” skin, which does not breathe like lungs.
Studies of cosmetic mineral oils and waxes have not demonstrated significant systemic exposure through intact skin penetration. There is therefore no basis for claiming properly purified petrolatum in a cream routinely accumulates in the liver.
Why does namoi choose another path? Occlusion is not the only way to formulate hydrating care. Suitable plant-derived emollients, humectants and skin-tailored systems are alternatives.
namoi’s decision: we deliberately omit mineral oils. We do not deny their dermatological applications; we choose another approach to texture and comfort. This is not a battle against raw material origin, but consistency in formulation philosophy.
6. PEG and PPG: what do we really know about manufacturing impurities?
A perfectly uniform cream results from technological decisions, including emulsifiers and ingredients that help combine components. PEG and PPG compounds can serve these roles. They are not a single substance but a broad group with different structures, molecular weights and functions. One cannot assign identical toxicity to the entire group. There is, however, a real quality issue concerning some ethoxylated materials.
Manufacture can generate traces of 1,4-dioxane, assessed by toxicological bodies for its carcinogenic potential. The US FDA notes that 1,4-dioxane is a possible manufacturing impurity, not an intentional ingredient. Manufacturing improvements have significantly reduced levels in monitored products.
A PEG-containing cosmetic is not automatically contaminated with dangerous quantities. Nor is it justified to say all PEGs “open the skin to toxins”. The specific compound, its purity and the complete formulation matter most.
namoi’s decision: we select other emulsifying and supporting systems, avoiding PEG in our formulas. We do not need this group to achieve our technological aims. This is a product-design decision. Thoughtful formulation is a foundation of quality.
7. Phenoxyethanol: must a permitted preservative be our choice?
Phenoxyethanol preserves many cosmetics by limiting certain microorganisms and supporting finished-product safety. This matters. Water-containing cosmetics without effective preservation or another properly validated protective system can pose a real risk. Preservatives should therefore not be portrayed as unnecessary additions used solely for manufacturers’ convenience.
In 2016, the SCCS considered phenoxyethanol safe as a cosmetic preservative at a maximum 1% concentration. The assessment also considered children’s exposure. This fact matters. Nevertheless, some users may experience adverse reactions, including irritation and, less commonly, hypersensitivity.
Such risks do not prove neurotoxicity of finished cosmetics used within applicable restrictions. High-dose toxicological studies cannot automatically be applied to everyday cream use.
namoi’s decision: we do not use phenoxyethanol. We choose alternative preservation systems assessed for safety and microbiological effectiveness. That is our formulation standard, not proof that all phenoxyethanol cosmetics are toxic.
8. Silicones: does instant smoothness mean real skincare?
Few ingredients change application feel as quickly as suitable silicones. Dimethicone and other silicone compounds improve slip, reduce friction and provide characteristic softness.
Why the controversy? Consumers often equate instant smoothness with deep biological rebuilding. These are different things. A cosmetic can smooth the surface immediately without changing dermal collagen quantity. That need not make it ineffective. It means its effect needs accurate description.
Silicones can provide valuable protective and sensory functions. There is insufficient basis to claim all clog pores, prevent skin breathing, destroy the microbiome and accelerate ageing. Some people nevertheless dislike certain textures, feel an excessive film or poorly tolerate a particular finished product. That is why the whole formula matters, not just one INCI name.
At namoi, we do not want to build skincare solely around instant smoothing. We also consider comfort over subsequent hours, reactions and real needs. namoi’s decision: we prefer alternative solutions for texture, slip and comfort according to each formulation’s aims. First impressions are not enough. What happens to skin afterwards matters too.
The key question: does omitting a controversial ingredient automatically make a better cosmetic?
No. This is where a manufacturer’s real responsibility begins. Paraben-free cosmetics still need microbiological protection. SLS-free products must cleanse well. Mineral-oil-free products must support comfort and hydration. Silicone-free cosmetics should still spread pleasantly.
Removing an ingredient alone does not prove formulation quality. Its replacement, finished-product behaviour and appropriate assessment matter.
The user’s skin condition matters too. What works for one person may not suit another. Very dry skin differs from excessive sebum production. Reactive skin may need another approach than skin tolerant of many ingredients.
At namoi, we therefore reject a simple division into good nature and bad chemicals. Everything applied to skin has a chemical structure. The difference lies in understanding properties and using them responsibly.
namoi Personal: why begin with understanding rather than a promise?
Imagine two women, both 45, both using anti-ageing skincare. One experiences dryness, burning and tightness after washing. The other notices uneven tone, less smoothness and oily areas. Should they use the same products simply because they are the same age? At namoi, we think not.
We created namoi Personal to begin with analysis, reactions and individual needs, rather than shelves of ready-made products. AI-assisted tools organise visible features. Ingredient tolerance, previous care and daily comfort provide additional information for designing a ritual. We use this to develop four stages.
namoi Personal 0.1 — cleanser. Individually selected cleansing for real skin needs.
namoi Personal 0.2 — toner. A formula supporting daily comfort and preparing for later steps.
namoi Personal 0.3 — day cream. Hydration and epidermal barrier care without native collagen.
namoi Personal 0.4 — night serum. Individually configured evening care using BioActive Collagen™.
Four elements of one system, rather than four random products.
In namoi OS under development, we also plan to observe changes at D0, D7, D14, D30, D60 and D90. Real personalisation does not end with the first analysis. Skin changes, and skincare should follow.
How can you read INCI to make informed choices?
You need not be a chemist to understand cosmetics better. First, check the function of the ingredient in question: preservative, emulsifier, cleanser, humectant or emollient?
Then consider its relevance to your skin. An intensive cleansing system may matter for very dry, reactive skin without being problematic for everyone.
Also consider whether a product remains for hours or rinses off quickly. Previous reactions, especially contact allergies, matter.
Do not judge overall safety from one ingredient alone. Preservative-free does not automatically mean safer. The best formula is not the one with the fewest unfamiliar names, but the one whose functions, safety and use have been properly considered.
Frequently asked questions about controversial cosmetic ingredients
Are parabens carcinogenic?
There is no basis for treating all permitted cosmetic parabens as proven causes of cancer in users. Individual parabens differ and are assessed separately.
Does SLS destroy the skin barrier?
At particular concentrations and exposures, SLS can irritate and increase TEWL. Not every rinse-off SLS product damages skin.
Are all phthalates banned in cosmetics?
No. Their properties and regulatory status differ. The EU bans DBP, among others, but other substances cannot automatically be equated with it.
Is petrolatum toxic to skin?
Appropriately purified cosmetic petrolatum is a well-known water-loss-reducing ingredient. Its petrochemical origin does not automatically mean harm.
Is phenoxyethanol safe?
The SCCS considered it safe as a preservative up to 1%. Individual reactions remain possible, and manufacturers may choose alternatives.
Are paraben- and silicone-free cosmetics automatically better?
No. Quality depends on the complete formula, safety, preservation, use and suitability for skin needs.
You do not need another cosmetic promising everything. You need to know what you really put on your skin.
For years, beauty marketing taught us to choose promises: younger skin, fewer wrinkles, instant regeneration and luxury.
Your skin does not read advertising or recognise beautiful packaging. It does not know the cream’s price or campaign cost. It responds to composition, application, environment and its biological needs.
At namoi, we want a different conversation. We neither consider every synthetic substance poisonous nor believe every permitted ingredient belongs in every formula. Law defines safety limits. Science explains properties. Informed technology enables justified manufacturer choices.
That is responsible cosmetology: not every available ingredient, but those with a specific task in a carefully developed formula. We need better understanding rather than more rejuvenation promises. Nor must we convince you that every competing cream is unsafe. We want to show why namoi deliberately chooses its own path.
True skincare luxury means each ingredient is there for a reason, not that a product contains everything.
namoi Personal — You do not choose your skincare. We create it for you.
namoi. Fewer random ingredients. More informed decisions. Skincare created for you.
Scientific and regulatory sources
1. SCCS (2021). Opinion on Propylparaben, SCCS/1623/20. European Commission. https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications/propylparaben_en
2. SCCS (2023). Opinion on Butylparaben, SCCS/1651/23. European Commission. https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications/butylparaben-cas-no-94-26-8-ec-no-202-318-7_en
3. SCCS (2025). Opinion on Butylparaben – Children's Exposure, SCCS/1674/25. European Commission. https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications/sccs-opinion-butylparaben-cas-no-94-26-8-ec-no-202-318-7-childrens-exposure_en
4. Lee C.H., Maibach H.I. (1995). The sodium lauryl sulfate model: an overview. Contact Dermatitis. DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.1995.tb00438.x. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7493454/
5. Fullerton A., Broby-Johansen U., Agner T. (1994). Sodium lauryl sulphate penetration in an in vitro model using human skin. Contact Dermatitis. DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.1994.tb00648.x. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8033548/
6. Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1181 of 8 July 2022 on the labelling of cosmetics containing formaldehyde-releasing substances. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2022/1181/oj
7. Health Canada. Safety of Cosmetic Ingredients – information on phthalates and safety assessment. https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/labelling/safety-ingredients.html
8. Review of data on the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes used in cosmetic applications (2017). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28789996/
9. U.S. FDA. 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetics: A Manufacturing Byproduct. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/potential-contaminants-cosmetics/14-dioxane-cosmetics-manufacturing-byproduct
10. SCCS (2016). Opinion on Phenoxyethanol, SCCS/1575/16. DOI: 10.1016/j.yrtph.2016.11.007. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27825833/
11. European Commission. Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetics – assessment of substances suspected of endocrine activity. https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/sectors/cosmetics/cosmetic-products-specific-topics/endocrine-disruptors_en
Laboratory studies, toxicological data, legal restrictions and clinical observations have different scopes. Information about individual substances’ hazards does not automatically prove that every finished cosmetic containing them is harmful. namoi’s formulation choices describe its philosophy and are not equivalent to comparative efficacy studies of competing products.
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